TULSA MASTER GARDENER

TIPS

AZALEAS


Planting Guidelines

Select a place where water never stands and preferably which is shaded during part of the day. Avoid low spots. Avoid soggy spots from dripping faucets and dripping air conditioners. Avoid where water will run-off from the roof or guttering.

Dig a hole 9 inches deep and 18 inches in diameter and fill the hole with Composted Pine Bark.

Wet mixture thoroughy.

Remove azalea from container and break, tear or slash the root ball so pot-bound roots will start growing away from ball.

Dig a smaller hole in the mix and put in the azalea.

Tamp thoroughly to remove pockets and to insure contact between roots and mixture. The azalea has tight, tough roots; you needn't be gentle.

Check to make sure the azalea is no lower in the bed than it was in original planting or container. Lift and re-plant if necessary.

Apply a layer of mulch to keep plant roots from drying out too quickly and blowing away. Don't overdo - you might smother the plant.

Wait at least one month to fertilize if planted in spring. Do not fertilize after August 1st.

Add mulch of oak leaves whenever available. Don't use elm leaves.

This simple method is okay for sandy or intermediate soils. It is unsatisfactory for gumbo. For better results call the Master Gardeners for detailed procedures.


Care of Azaleas

WATER THOROUGLY about once a week during hot, dry spells -- but don't drown.

Fertilize with ACIDIC "Azalea and Camelia" fertilizer or Osmocote immediately after blooming stops. Do not fertilize after August 1. Healthy, fertilized plants will not winter-kill. Don't overdo. Too little fertilizer only means slower growth. Too much fertilizer kills. Better hungry than dead. Add superphosphate to Rhododendron NOT NITROGEN in fall.

NEVER CULTIVATE. Azalea roots are right below the surface.

Add or renew mulch. Oak (NOT ELM) leaves are best. Pecan hulls and Pine bark are O.K.

WATER IN FALL AND WINTER BEFORE HARD FREEZES. This is particularly important for plants under eaves of the house that get no rain. Dry azaleas and other evergreens winter kill. Healthy azaleas will survive winters that would kill every Bufort Holly in Tulsa.

Symptoms-Causes and Cures

Wilted leaves - The azalea is begging for water.

Dropping dry leaves in Summer - Water thoroughly. Dropping leaves in Fall or Winter - May be normal; all varieties drop some leaves, some varieties drop most leaves.

Yellow leaves in Spring or Summer - To much water or poor drainage. Remove plants, raise bed, replant. Yellow or Red leaves in Fall - Normal, particularly for plants in sun.

Yellow leaves with green veins - Too little acidity. For short-term cure, spray with iron chelate or ferrous sulfate. For long term cure, rake off mulch, sprinkle one tablespoon of sulfur around plant, water in, replace mulch. If trouble persists, lift plant and correct acidity.

Split bark and winter-kill - You planted a florist type azalea or plant was dry or unfertilized.

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flr_azl1.htm upd. 5/7/07