By Shirley Miller
Master Gardener
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September

Gardening Tasks Reminder

F ertilize:
Fertilize roses for the last time this season. Discontinue feeding mums when buds begin to show color. Give those long-blooming annuals a shot of fertilizer so they may go out in all their glory with a display of rich color and large blossoms. Discontinue fertilizing perennials so that they may begin preparation for winter.

Late September is a good time to feed your trees and large shrubs. Results will show next spring. There are several Tree and Shrub fertilizers on the market. Look for the crystals which can be spread under the drip line and watered in.

W ater:
Turf should be receiving two inches of water per week. It is better to split into two applications per week. Frequent light watering encourages roots to rise to get moisture. Encourage deep roots by heavier applications less frequently.

Remember to water azaleas thoroughly and regularly. Keep the soil moist, not soggy.

Water plants such as dahlia and mums thoroughly. Plants in flower require adequate moisture to present their best blossoms.

As the weather cools, cut back, but do not stop, watering perennials that have finished blooming. Less water allows the plant to harden off for the rigors of winter.

M ulch:
Check the mulch on your azaleas. Keep about 2 inches of acid producing mulch such as pine needles, oak leaves, pecan hulls, or fine pine bark or cypress mulch on azaleas throughout the year.

P rune:
Continue to deadhead (disbud) perennials and annuals. Cut off Peony stems as they die.. Cut back spent stems of spider and surprise lilies, so that the plant may send nutrients to the bulb instead of seed heads. If wax begonias have become leggy, shear back and fertilize with a liquid fertilizer for continued blossom until frost.

P lant:
Plant cool season annuals such as pansies, ornamental cabbage or kale, snapdragons and dusty miller. Transplant seedlings of perennial seed sown last month. Time to order lily bulbs. Collect from a friend little black bulblets from stems of tiger lilies. Plant 2 inches apart and cover with light mulch. If you buy mums, dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball, sink the plant, and firm the soil. Soak well and continue watering as blossoms appear.

Now is an ideal time to plant or overseed cool season grasses. September planting gives roots time to mature before having to deal with freezing weather. Fescue seeds take up to 10 days to germinate. Keep the seeds moist, but do not wash away. Call the Master Gardener office for a list of improved varieties that have been tested and proven by OSU.

If you are interested in Wildflowers, now is the time to plant seeds for bloom next spring. (See article elsewhere for additional information on planting and care of wildflowers.)

Fall is a great time to plant woody ornamentals. September is an ideal time to plant or move needled evergreens. Crape Myrtle does not mind being moved when it's still hot. Plant peony crowns 2 inches deep. Peonies will not bloom if planted too deep, or too shallow.

P ests:
Apply Preemerge weed control to your warm season grasses in late September to prevent henbit and chickweed. Do NOT apply Preemerge herbicides if you plan to seed or overseed your lawn. Control winter broadleaf weeds such as dandelion with a 2,4-D type herbicide. Master Gardeners will be glad to discuss your turf problems and recommend treatment for your type of grass.

Unless you can turn up at least 10 grubs in one shovel full of soil, you probably don’t have a problem worth treating. However, If you do have a grub problem, now is your last chance for control. Call the MG office for proper chemical control.

Watch for and treat any late infestations of tree webworms.

Apply tree wrap to newly planted trees to prevent sun damage this winter.

Continue to watch for lace bugs on azaleas, pyracantha, cotoneaster and other woody ornamentals. Call Master Gardeners for chemical controls.

Cucumber beetles can ruin dahlias and mums in a hurry. If you spot green beetles with black spots or stripes down the length of the body, call a Master Gardener for help.

T ips:
  • One of the best gardening procedures you can practice is good sanitation. Keep dead leaf debris cleaned up, and thrown away. Fungus and insects overwinter in such debris. Do not put this trash in your compost bin.

  • In case you aren’t tired of mowing, overseed your warm season grass with annual rye. Rye will die out when Bermuda breaks dormancy in the spring. Meantime, you will have a nice green lawn throughout the cold weather.

  • Take cuttings of your favorite tender bedding plants.

  • Time to order bulbs. Try something new this year. The Allium family produces spectacular blooms in early to late spring.

  • Take down and clean out birdhouses. Remove old nesting materials. If you do not take down your martin house, dust the inside with sulfur and plug holes for the winter.

  • If your garden was not up to expectations this year, perhaps you should consider getting samples and have the soil tested. Look for “How to take a soil sample” elsewhere in the MG web site.

  • Begin to reduce the amount of light on tropical plants that have been outdoors. Place in the shade. Be sure to treat for insects before bringing into the house. It might be wise to plunge the pot into a bucket of water for about 30 minutes. This eliminates slugs, ants and roaches that may be hiding in the pot.

  • Tree wound paintis no longer recommended. Paints have been shown to slow healing and hide emerging disease.

  • Keep feeding the Hummingbirds. These tiny creatures need lots of food to store energy for their long fall migration. They won’t all leave until the last of October.

    Growing wildflowers in your backyard

  • Those fields of wildflowers look so pretty as we pass by at 70 miles an hour. Think what they would look like in your yard.

  • Growing wildflowers takes a little preparation, a little thought and good bed preparation. Wildflowers can be grown in the sun, dry shade, moist shade, desert conditions and woodland conditions.

  • Native plants dug in the wild very rarely survive. If one diggs whole plants, conservation of this sometimes rare resource is rapidly depleted. However, collecting a few seeds does little to interrupt nature’s balance.

  • Prepare your bed as you would for any garden. A good loam tilled to a fine texture makes a good start. Buy or collect wildflower seeds that are native to this area. Native seeds are heat and drought tolerant. If you have a shady spot, select seeds for either dry or moist shade.

  • Mix sand with very small seeds for even distribution. Sow seeds directly on the soil. Do not cover very small seeds. Rake larger seeds lightly into the soil. Soak with a fine spray. Keep seeds moist for 4/5 weeks. A light covering material will hide seeds from the birds.

  • Native wildflowers for a sunny spot include: blue flax, coreopsis, Coneflower, some poppies, larkspur, dwarf cornflower, primrose, gallarida, daisy and pinks. For a long blooming period, choose seeds that flower from early spring through late summer.

  • There are several good books that identify wildflowers and some discuss their culture. Look for them in your library or at the Garden Center Library. When you learn which flowers you would like to see in your garden, it will be easy to find the seeds.

  • Once established, wildflowers require much less maintenance than some other cultivated plants. Most annuals will re-seed and do not require as much cultivation or water. If you decide to go “wild” you may be surprised at the beauty of your native flowers, and will surely be pleased with a less demanding garden.

Contact the Master Gardeners at the Tulsa County Extension for more information.

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URI:/calendars/caltips_sep.shtml   Date Modified:Monday, 26-Oct-2009 18:14:10 EDT   Monday, 15-Mar-2010 08:45:26 GMT