By Sue Gray
OSU Extension
Horticulturist
Fall 2005
Email Sue

Flea and Tick Control Tips
for Dogs and Cats
Tulsa County
O.S.U. Cooperative Extension Center



INTRODUCTION

Family pets bring great happiness to our lives. However dogs, cats and their owners suffer great discomfort when fleas and ticks enter the picture. The purpose of this brochure is to provide unbiased information on managing fleas and ticks.

Both ticks and fleas can be a year-round problem in Oklahoma. Various species of ticks exist here and, as a result, are never all hatching at one time. Fleas persist due to so many pets living indoors, providing an ideal climate for year-round breeding of this insect pest.

With recent breakthroughs in flea and tick control, pets can lead happy pest-free lives.

 

Typical Household Flea Population
Killing Only Adults Does Not Solve the Problem

INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT (IPM)

Flea and tick control can be achieved by using Integrated Pest Management or (IPM) techniques. This means using good sanitation, such as mowing yards and vacuuming homes, to reduce flea and tick populations. It also means understanding the flea life cycle. Although adult fleas make up only 5% of a flea infestation, pesticides have traditionally targeted this part of the life cycle. The remaining 95% consists of eggs, larvae and pupae. Flea offspring must be targeted if they are to be controlled or eliminated. Newer biological controls kill eggs and larvae. Several products contain a combination of materials. One is a short-term adulticide that breaks down very quickly while the second product persists for many weeks killing flea eggs and larvae.

WHY CONTROL FLEAS AND TICKS?

Fleas are not just a nuisance to us and our pets. They also carry intestinal parasites, such as the dog tapeworm, that can be passed on to the animal. A single flea bite can cause flea- allergy dermatitis on sensitive pets, leading to serious skin infections. Ticks carry many diseases that affect both humans and pets. Heavy populations of these blood-sucking pests weaken animals. Older, less vigorous animals suffer more quickly from fleas and ticks.

It is important to note that flea and tick problems on one pet can easily transfer to others. Treat all pets in the household as necessary.

THINKING LIKE A FLEA

Our worst flea pest is the cat flea ( Ctenocephalides felis ). Fleas need a blood meal to survive. Their favorite hosts around the house and yard are dogs, cats, squirrels and other warm- blooded mammals. If people are being bitten by fleas in a house where pets are present then a very high population is present. For every six fleas seen, there are 300 adult fleas actually present. If animals are not present, fleas will opt to hop onto humans. They thrive best in indoor climates.

 

SOURCES OF FLEAS AND TICKS

FLEA LIFE CYCLE
Notice that pupa can survive up to 170 days.

The presence of adult fleas is just the tip of the iceberg. There are actually many more flea eggs, larvae and pupa just waiting to become adults. Targeting only adult forms of fleas is not at all effective. Long-term, effective flea control is best achieved by use of products that target flea adults and their young.

Flea adult taking a blood
meal, excreting
bloody material that dries
to become "flea dirt".

Fleas can be controlled with a three step program of treating the pet, their sleeping areas and the moist, shady areas outside of our homes where pets spend time.

Tick eradication is more difficult, but many over-the-counter products can be sprayed on yards to reduce the population. Ticks attach themselves to animals as they walk through areas of tall grass or under trees. Ticks are present due to wildlife such as deer and squirrels. Reduce tick populations by keeping grass mowed short. Some very effective products that kill ticks on dogs and cats are available through veterinarians.

Our pets are the host for fleas and ticks. Treating the pet with long-lasting products that target these pests is our most effective means of control. Broadly scattered pesticides around a yard will run off and load the downstream environment with pollutants and do not eradicate flea problems. If we treat our premises we should target areas where pets spend most of their time, such as moist shady areas.

Areas where there is high amount of organic debris, such as fallen leaves and mulch should be re-treated as a source point for fleas. Be sure to get the appropriate product for the pest of concern. Products that kill fleas may not kill ticks. Read the label to target the pest that is a problem.

 

FINDING FLEAS ON PETS

FLEA COMB Typical place where fleas are
found using a flea comb.

Many pet owners do not believe that their pet has fleas. A flea comb is an excellent way to convince them otherwise. Fleas frequent the hind quarter area of dogs and cats. They can be easily seen by rolling the pet over and observing the lower abdominal area where fur does not obstruct the view. An adult flea always prefers these animals over humans. Fleas jump on humans in areas of heavy infestation or if pets have been absent from an area for an extended period of time.

Flea combs have fine teeth that can capture fleas as it is pulled through the animal's fur. There are two sides to the comb, with teeth spacing adjusted for either coarse or fine-haired pets. Comb through the top hind quarter area of the pet, just ahead of the tail. Dip comb in soapy water to release and drown fleas.

If no fleas are found in a flea comb, check for "flea dirt". These dark specks are dried flea excrement from the blood meals they have had on dogs and cats. When dipped in water the "dirt" goes into solution turning water reddish brown.


FINDING TICKS ON PETS

(Centimeter scale.)
"Seed Ticks" are not another
kind of tick, but are nymphal
stages growing to adult size
which grow to adult size.

Residents living in rural areas should check pets daily for tick infestation. Examine the entire animal, especially around the ears and face.

If ticks are found, remove them by using forceps or wearing disposable gloves. Grasp the tick close to the skin and apply slow, steady tension making sure to remove the head of the tick.

Some ticks, such as the Brown Dog tick, can be found in specific areas of the animal. The brown dog tick adult is most often found in the ears and between the toes. After their eggs hatch, larvae and nymphs are found in the long fur at the back of the neck.

 

IF FLEAS AND TICKS ARE DISCOVERED

Step 1: Help the Pet.
Make the pet comfortable. As a temporary measure flea and tick shampoos will remove the pests. This does not keep other adult fleas and ticks from getting right back on the animal. Use a flea comb on cats as they do not normally tolerate bathing.

Step 2: See a Veterinarian
Consult a veterinarian for the most appropriate product to apply directly to your pet. The clinic will prescribe a product based on the species, age and weight of the animal. (See chart on next page for products and their uses.)

Step 3: Treat the Site.
Wash pet bedding in hot, soapy water and thoroughly clean areas frequented by pets, vacuuming carpeted areas and mopping hardwood and tile floors.

Treat premises with products labeled for indoor use. Newly hatched fleas live most successfully indoors as they prefer areas out of sunlight, temperatures of 70°-90° F. and high humidity.

Flea eggs drop into carpet and hatch into larvae. These larvae live on organic debris that is in carpeting. They also survive between the cracks of hardwood floors and along baseboards. After feeding for several days, they become a pupa, wrapped in a silken cocoon that is pesticide resistant.

The most effective premise sprays contain materials such as pyrethrins to quickly "knock down" adult fleas and an insect growth regulator, such as methoprene, to keep eggs and larvae from maturing into adults. This helps break the flea's life cycle. Vacuum carpets thoroughly before applying a pesticide labeled for indoor use. Vacuuming raises the nap, aiding penetration of the product.

Use an outdoor flea and tick control product in problem areas. Note that methoprene breaks down quickly outdoors. Use products containing pyriproxyfen as an outdoor insect development inhibitor.

 

Safe and Effective Flea and Tick Control Products
Trade Name Active Ingredient Manufacturer Ticks  Flea  
Adults
Flea  
Larvae
Flea  
Eggs
Formulations Available For:
Products for Use on Pet
Advantage Imidacloprid Bayer   X     Dogs, Cats
Advantix Imidacloprid + Permethrin Bayer X X X X Dogs
Frontline Fipronil Merial X X     Dogs, Cats
Frontline Plus Fipronil + Methoprene Merial X X X X Dogs, Cats
Program Lufenuron Novartis     X X Dogs, Cats
Sentinel Milbemycinoxime & Lufenuron Novartis     X X Dogs
Capstar Nitenpyram Novartis   X     Dogs, Cats, Puppies, Kittens
Capstar is useful for heavily infested pets as nearly all adult fleas will die within four hours.
Revolution Selamectin Pfizer X* X X X Dogs, Cats (*no tick activity)
Basis Products Fenoxycarb & Adulticides Novartis   X X X Dogs, Cats
Note: All products listed above are available only through a licensed veterinarian.
Purchase by any other means negates manufacturers' warranty.
Read and follow all label directions.
Common Active Ingredients For Use in Homes:
Many Permethrin Several   X      
Many Pyrethrin/Pyrethroids Several   X      
Archer, Nylar Pyriproxyfen Several     X X  
Siphotrol, Precor Methoprene Several     X X  
Basis Fenoxycarb & Adulticides Novartis   X X X  
Common Active Ingredients for Use Outdorrs
Archer, Nylar Pyriproxyfen Several     X X  
Many Permethrin Several X X      
Many Pyrethrin/Pyrethroids Several   X      
Check with your veterinarian for suggested over-the-counter products appropriate for dogs or cats.
Exclusion of other products is not intended. Those listed above are the most commonly available
at this publication date.
 

A TYPICAL and TRUE FLEA STORY

An Oklahoma citizen named "Pete" contacted the O.S.U Extension center with a problem: his dog had fleas, his house was flea infested and now he and his family were getting flea bites.

They dusted the dog numerous times with flea powder to kill the adults. They set off insecticide bombs in their house. A few days later the problem returned. Their dog lived indoors, only going outside a few times a day. The yard was small with grass mowed very short. The dog never left the yard. Pete asked: "So where did these fleas come from?"

After a few questions from Extension professionals we learned that Pete and his family moved into a previously occupied house just a few months ago. The former owners had kept pets as well. The fleas were present when Pete's family moved in. No adults were noticed at first because they had died while the house was vacant for a few weeks. However, the eggs had hatched into larvae which fed on debris in the carpet. They then developed into pupae and lay dormant until the next residents arrived. When the pupae sensed carbon dioxide, exhaled by Pete and his pet, they emerged as adult fleas to start the cycle again.

"Why didn't the traditional pesticides work?", Pete asked. Pete was told that he was only treating the tip of the iceberg, or flea population pyramid. By using products that kill adults and last a short time, only a small portion of the actual flea population was being controlled.

Here's the strategy outlined for Pete and his dog:
1. Make the dog comfortable. Give it a shampoo to kill the fleas. Products containing d-limonene are gentle on pets, but will kill the fleas. Take the dog to the veterenarian and have it weighed. Purchase a product from the clinic that contains one of the following active ingredients: fenoxycarb, fipronil, lufenuron or imidacloprid. These will break the flea's life cycle. Make sure it is the right dose for the dog's weight. This product will last for one month. Buy enough for several monthly applications. WARNING: Veterinary pharmaceutical companies will not guarantee products that are not purchased directly through a veterinarian. Be wary of cheap imitation products that are sold on the internet.

2. Treat the house with a product that works TWO ways: kills adults and renders their offspring unable to complete their life cycle. See chart of flea product active ingredients. We tell Pete to wear his READING GLASSES while shopping as the print on labels is tiny.

3. Buy only products labeled for indoor use and labeled for controlling fleas. Look for products that contain at least two active ingredients that will control both adult and immature fleas.

4. Treat portions of the yard that are moist and shady where fleas might be numerous. Use only products labeled for outdoor use. Indoor products will not be as effective due to breakdown in sunlight and rain.

BE PATIENT WITH FLEA CONTROL

The pupae (cocoons) of fleas are not susceptible to any pesticides. They will lie hidden in carpets and floor cracks emerging over many weeks. When they emerge as adult fleas, they'll be vulnerable to flea-control products labeled for use on adults fleas. They'll seek a dog or cat for a blood meal, or humans if no pets are present. Pets treated with a long lasting adulticide, such as imidacloprid or fipronil, will be a target for these organisms that will quickly die once they bite the animal. Eventually, the flea population can be so diminished that only our pets have to be occasionally treated.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

http://www.oces.tulsacounty.org or: the Tulsa County O.S.U. Master Gardeners' website: http://www.tulsamastergardeners.org Flea and tick questions are answered by telephone Monday through Friday, from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. at 918-746-3701.

Click for Flea and Tick Images

REFERENCES

Oklahoma State University, in compliance with Title VI and VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Executive Order 11246 as amended, Title IX of the Education Amendments of 1972, Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990 , and other federal laws and regulations, does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, national origin, gender, age, religion, disability, or status as a veteran in any of its policies, practices or procedures. This includes but is not limited to admissions, employment, financial aid, and educational services. This publication is printed and issued by Oklahoma State University as authorized by the Dean of the Division of Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources and has been prepared and distributed at no cost to the taxpayer.

Publication Date: September, 2005 by S.E. Gray, Tulsa County O.S.U. Extension Center


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