Since we’ve passed Seed Catalog Season, it’s now time to get ready to start seeds indoors for some of the vegetables we plan to grow in our spring and summer gardens. For example, the Master Gardeners plan on growing cabbage this year in our Seed to Supper Farm. Last year we grew and donated over 11,000 pounds of produce and this year we are hoping for more. Since you can plant cabbage transplants between mid-February and mid-March, I started our cabbage seeds last weekend. Broccoli and cauliflower are also able to be planted early as transplants, so now would be the time to start those seeds as well.

You still have a little while before needing to start your tomato and pepper seeds, but maybe only about a month. Another early crop you can plant mid-February to mid-March is onions. Because of that I have already ordered our onion sets for the season and we have about 1400 onion plants arriving mid-February. Yes, garden season has started (if it ever stopped).

If you have never grown your own vegetables from seed, it’s a pretty low-cost endeavor that can save you money in the long run. With transplants costing $4 to $5 retail, you can grow a lot of vegetables for that same amount spent on seeds.

Yes, you will have some start-up costs for seed trays, seed starting soil, and grow lights. But, once you have them, the hardware can be used again each year to start your seeds. And, if you really want to do this for little cost, start saving your yogurt cups etc. These make good containers in which to start seeds also. Just remember to punch holes in the bottom to allow for drainage.

In the past, I have been a big fan of the peat pots, but this year, with so many plants to start, I am using trays with 72 spots in each tray and the compressed soil that comes with them. We’ll see how that goes.

If you are going to need to purchase seed starting soil, get the best you can afford. Giving your plants a good start is key to success. Seed starting soil is lighter and thinner than potting soil which gives those tiny little roots a good medium in which to grow. You can remove them from the container in which you started them to place them in a larger container to continue to grow, but I tend to try and keep them in the original planter until time to plant. As they grown, you’ll need to give them a little liquid fertilizer to coax them along.

Pro tip, if you do use the lighter seed starting soil, moisten the soil before inserting the seed. This light soil tends to repel water at first, but if you moisten it first, you’ll have better luck getting your seeds to stay where you want them.

If you want to take your seed starting game up a notch, you will get quicker germination with the addition of a seed starting heat mat. Typically, most seeds germinate faster when they are around 70 degrees or so. Right now, where I am germinating my seeds, it’s typically in the 60s, so I have a seed starting heat mat under the seeds. One thing to remember, is to turn the mat off after your seeds germinate. Leaving it on will create an environment that is too hot for those tiny plants.

Most seed starting trays come with a clear plastic cover which helps retain moisture in the growing environment. Same scenario as in the heating mat though, you’ll want to remove this cover once your seeds germinate. This way they can grow taller than the cover.

But what about light? Light is very important for you tiny seedlings. While you may have a perfect spot indoors that receives a good amount of light, most of us are going to need to provide supplemental light for our seedlings. This becomes even more obvious when you find out these new little seedlings need at least 16 to 18 hours of light per day.

When you use a grow light, you are going to want to place that light source as close as you can to your seedlings. You will also need to rotate your seedlings under the light to make sure they all get the same amount of light. The need for this will become painfully obvious if you don’t, because seedlings near the center of the tray will outgrow those closer to the edge of the tray, shading them and stunting their growth. So, move those trays around so they will all end up about the same size. There’s almost an infinite variety of grow lights, so pick one that fits your budget and move on.

Also, as your seedlings grow, if they are tall and lanky rather than thicker and more robust, they probably aren’t getting enough light. This is a reminder that you probably should have purchased that grow light, or maybe a bigger one.

When it comes time to move your seedlings out to the garden, don’t forget the important step of hardening off your plants. Hardening off is the process of gradually introducing your seedlings to the outdoors. You can begin this process by placing the seed tray outdoors in an area that receives shade for a few hours, then gradually increase their exposure to direct sun over several days. You’ll notice visible changes in your plants as they prepare themselves for their new home. When you have completed this process, they will be ready to place in the garden.

While this may sound a little overwhelming to new gardeners, once you get the hang of it you’ll be starting more and more seeds indoors and saving money as well. . See you in the garden.

You can get answers to all your gardening questions by calling the Tulsa Master Gardeners Help Line at 918-746-3701, dropping by our Diagnostic Center at 4116 E. 15th Street, or by emailing us at mg@tulsamastergardeners.org. Photo: OSU Ag Comm.